1987 VW Vanagon GL Westfalia · Mods & Accessories

Mods & Accessories

Propane Filler Extension
Propane filler extension fitting shown mounted to propane tank...for those times when the propane service station doesn't have the proper fitting to connect to the supply inlet and you NEED propane. It happened to me only once. After that, I had a local propane shop put together this extension fitting. When not needed, it fits neatly in the storage box under the driver's seat.

Propane Filler Extension
	Propane filler extension fitting shown mounted to propane tank...for those times when the propane service station doesn't have the proper fitting to connect to the supply inlet and you NEED propane. It happened to me only once. After that, I had a local propane shop put together this extension fitting. When not needed, it fits neatly in the storage box under the driver's seat.

Rear Hatch Lock Extension
With this gizmo slipped over the rear hatch lock assembly, the hatch can be locked into position, holding the hatch door slightly ajar (about 2.5 cm.), allowing flow through ventilation in the van in conjunction with the side window screens or the pop top screen open, or without the pop top raised. Of course, this is used only when the van is stationary in camping mode. The extension is approximately 12.5 cm. long. It was custom made for me by a local machine shop but commercially produced ones are now available.

Hatch locked into position with rear hatch lock extension.

Rear Hatch Lock Extension
	With this gizmo slipped over the rear hatch lock assembly, the hatch can be locked into position, holding the hatch door slightly ajar (about 2.5 cm.), allowing flow through ventilation in the van in conjunction with the side window screens or the pop top screen open, or without the pop top raised. Of course, this is used only when the van is stationary in camping mode. The extension is approximately 12.5 cm. long. It was custom made for me by a local machine shop but commercially produced ones are now available.
	Hatch locked into position with rear hatch lock extension.

Front Door Window Screen
Homemade side window screen consisting of regular household screening and adhesive magnetic strip purchased at a local craft material store. The magnetic strip, glued to the top and bottom edge of the screen, holds the screen firmly to the door. The edges of the screen are oversized which allows them to be grasped firmly by the vent window and door when the edges are tucked into the van interior. When not in use, the screens are easily rolled into tubes and stored conveniently in the van, occupying very little space.

This is how the screen looks after the sides have been tucked into the van and secured with the vent window and the door.

Front Door Window Screen
	Homemade side window screen consisting of regular household screening and adhesive magnetic strip purchased at a local craft material store. The magnetic strip, glued to the top and bottom edge of the screen, holds the screen firmly to the door. The edges of the screen are oversized which allows them to be grasped firmly by the vent window and door when the edges are tucked into the van interior. When not in use, the screens are easily rolled into tubes and stored conveniently in the van, occupying very little space.
	This is how the screen looks after the sides have been tucked into the van and secured with the vent window and the door.

Fresh Air Vent & Sliding Door Grab Bar
I've sealed shut the fresh air vent shown next to the additional light just aft of the front passenger seat and filled the fresh air channel with foam at a point just past the rear most vent. This provides a greater volume of air and a more efficient route for the air to reach the rear seat passengers via the remaining vent.
Additional grab handle mounted on sliding door to assist in closing the door firmly. I've also installed a grab handle on the driver's side window pillar which allows the driver to get into the driver's seat more "gracefully".
Thanks to Joel Walker for helpful suggestions!

Fresh Air Vent & Sliding Door Grab Bar
	I've sealed shut the fresh air vent shown next to the additional light just aft of the front passenger seat and filled the fresh air channel with foam at a point just past the rear most vent. This provides a greater volume of air and a more efficient route for the air to reach the rear seat passengers via the remaining vent. Additional grab handle mounted on sliding door to assist in closing the door firmly. I've also installed a grab handle on the driver's side window pillar which allows the driver to get into the driver's seat more "gracefully". Thanks to Joel Walker for helpful suggestions!

Sliding Door Bug Curtain
Homemade sliding door bug curtain made from "no-see-um" mesh fabric. This fabric can be purchased at any fabric store. The black mesh is virtually invisible as the shown in this photo. In addition to the fabric, a length of spline, a length of lightweight chain and a few clothes pins were used to make the curtain. BTW, those oil spots on the concrete are NOT from my van!

Close-up of spline ends secured to drip railings with clothespins.

Close-up of spline inserted into top hem of bug curtain and tucked into Westy's sliding door curtain track. Spline is the resilient cord that is pressed into the channel around the perimeter of household aluminum screen doors, keeping the screen taut and attached to the frame. This spline fits perfectly into the Westy's sliding door curtain track, holding the bug curtain securely. The spline can be removed and reinserted without losing it's resiliency. Spline can be purchased at most hardware or home builder's stores.

Close-up of bug curtain showing length of chain sewn into bottom hem. The chain provides weight to the curtain to keep it hanging vertical. The curtain is sized to hang about 7.5 cm. below the door sill. This keeps the curtain from being blown into the van.
Thanks to Phaedra Savage for her input!

Sliding Door Bug Curtain
	Homemade sliding door bug curtain made from "no-see-um" mesh fabric. This fabric can be purchased at any fabric store. The black mesh is virtually invisible as the shown in this photo. In addition to the fabric, a length of spline, a length of lightweight chain and a few clothes pins were used to make the curtain. BTW, those oil spots on the concrete are NOT from my van!
	Close-up of spline ends secured to drip railings with clothespins.
	Close-up of spline inserted into top hem of bug curtain and tucked into Westy's sliding door curtain track. Spline is the resilient cord that is pressed into the channel around the perimeter of household aluminum screen doors, keeping the screen taut and attached to the frame. This spline fits perfectly into the Westy's sliding door curtain track, holding the bug curtain securely. The spline can be removed and reinserted without losing it's resiliency. Spline can be purchased at most hardware or home builder's stores.
	Close-up of bug curtain showing length of chain sewn into bottom hem. The chain provides weight to the curtain to keep it hanging vertical. The curtain is sized to hang about 7.5 cm. below the door sill. This keeps the curtain from being blown into the van. Thanks to Phaedra Savage for her input!

Booster Step
Homemade gizmo (technical term) facilitating easier access to upper bunk. It's simply a 2 cm. thick piece of wood attached to a length of hardwood dowel using a plumbing pipe flange and inserted into the mounting bracket for the front swing out table. I glued a piece of scrap rubber to the top surface to act as a non-slip stair tread. Stepping on this while grabbing the top bunk, provides additional momentum when going "upstairs".

Booster Step
	Homemade gizmo (technical term) facilitating easier access to upper bunk. It's simply a 2 cm. thick piece of wood attached to a length of hardwood dowel using a plumbing pipe flange and inserted into the mounting bracket for the front swing out table. I glued a piece of scrap rubber to the top surface to act as a non-slip stair tread. Stepping on this while grabbing the top bunk, provides additional momentum when going "upstairs".

Upper Bunk Pillow Board
Homemade two-piece accessory consisting of plywood and upholstered automobile grade foam. The plywood has been painted light grey while the dark gray upholstered foam piece is a close match to the van's upholstery.
The black tube standing next to the plywood contains the homemade side window screens.

Pillow board accessory shown in place with upper bunk folded open. The pillow board accessory puts an end to pillows falling to the floor from the upper bunk as well as providing about 20 additional cm. of sleeping space for upper bunk sleepers.
The pillow board and cushion are stored at the rear of the folded upper bunk when the pop top is down.

Upper Bunk Pillow Board
	Homemade two-piece accessory consisting of plywood and upholstered automobile grade foam. The plywood has been painted light grey while the dark gray upholstered foam piece is a close match to the van's upholstery. The black tube standing next to the plywood contains the homemade side window screens.
	Pillow board accessory shown in place with upper bunk folded open. The pillow board accessory puts an end to pillows falling to the floor from the upper bunk as well as providing about 20 additional cm. of sleeping space for upper bunk sleepers. The pillow board and cushion are stored at the rear of the folded upper bunk when the pop top is down.

Fire Extinguisher
Additional ABC fire extinguisher mounted on cabinet behind driver's seat. Porta-Potty in the background. Never leave home without it

Fire Extinguisher
	Additional ABC fire extinguisher mounted on cabinet behind driver's seat. Porta-Potty in the background. Never leave home without it

Passenger Side Lighting
Additional Westy stock courtesy lights installed in headliner over passenger seat and in fresh air channel over sliding door. Both lights are controlled by separate door pillar switches.

This shot shows the switch installed in the door pillar for the light over the sliding door.

For the sliding door light switch, it's necessary to mount a plastic block on the leading edge of the sliding door which will fully depress the door pillar switch when the door is closed. The door pillar and sliding door have been pre-drilled at the factory to accept these parts. All parts were scrounged from used parts shops.
Thanks to Bill Davidson for his suggestions!

Passenger Side Lighting
	Additional Westy stock courtesy lights installed in headliner over passenger seat and in fresh air channel over sliding door. Both lights are controlled by separate door pillar switches.
	This shot shows the switch installed in the door pillar for the light over the sliding door.
	For the sliding door light switch, it's necessary to mount a plastic block on the leading edge of the sliding door which will fully depress the door pillar switch when the door is closed. The door pillar and sliding door have been pre-drilled at the factory to accept these parts. All parts were scrounged from used parts shops. Thanks to Bill Davidson for his suggestions!

Closet Lighting
	DC operated "touch light" mounted on closet ceiling provides much needed illumination.

Cockpit Storage
Homemade pouches sewn from exterior grade vinyl fabric and attached to carpeting in front of shifter and driver's and passenger's seat pedestals.
Additional door pocket installed on passenger door.

Commercially available cup holder mounted in dash cigarette lighter. The wobbly housing for the cigarette lighter had to be tightened securely to the dash before the cup holder could be used.

Aerial view of homemade storage pouch mounted at floor level on front face of passenger seat pedestal. Household drapery hooks are used to fasten the pouch to the carpeting on the sidewall of the pedestal.

Cockpit Storage
	Homemade pouches sewn from exterior grade vinyl fabric and attached to carpeting in front of shifter and driver's and passenger's seat pedestals. Additional door pocket installed on passenger door.
	Commercially available cup holder mounted in dash cigarette lighter. The wobbly housing for the cigarette lighter had to be tightened securely to the dash before the cup holder could be used.
	Aerial view of homemade storage pouch mounted at floor level on front face of passenger seat pedestal. Household drapery hooks are used to fasten the pouch to the carpeting on the sidewall of the pedestal.

Headlamps Upgrade
The stock headlamps have very poorly designed reflectors. I've upgraded the stock low beam lamps with European H4 halogen lamps which do a much better job of lighting the road in front of my Westy.
All head lamps have 3M stick-on headlight protectors as well.

Headlamps Upgrade
	The stock headlamps have very poorly designed reflectors. I've upgraded the stock low beam lamps with European H4 halogen lamps which do a much better job of lighting the road in front of my Westy. All head lamps have 3M stick-on headlight protectors as well.

Canoe Rack
I use a Thule rack (model unknown) for carrying my canoe. I chose the second highest setting of the four available horizontal bar heights. With the canoe removed, and the rack positioned as shown on the van, the second highest setting allows the pop top to be raised without having to remove the rack.

Positioning the rear rack as shown here allows the pop top to be raised without having to remove the rack from the van.

This image shows the rack's ample clearance over the pop top, allowing the skylight to be fully opened with the canoe on the van. I've also fitted two bolts on each horizontal bar to prevent lateral movement of the canoe along the bars due to crosswinds.
Note the quick release Grumman canoe straps used to secure the canoe at the bow and stern. These straps, which can be adjusted in seconds, hold the canoe very securely. I drilled holes in the underside of the front and rear bumpers to accept the S-hooks on the straps.

To adjust the straps, simply slip the locking ring over the end of the handle, take in or let out more slack on the strap, then lever the handle back against the strap and slip the locking ring back over the end of the handle.
The Grumman straps are available wherever fine quality canoes and kayaks are sold.

Canoe Rack
	I use a Thule rack (model unknown) for carrying my canoe. I chose the second highest setting of the four available horizontal bar heights. With the canoe removed, and the rack positioned as shown on the van, the second highest setting allows the pop top to be raised without having to remove the rack.
	Positioning the rear rack as shown here allows the pop top to be raised without having to remove the rack from the van.
	This image shows the rack's ample clearance over the pop top, allowing the skylight to be fully opened with the canoe on the van. I've also fitted two bolts on each horizontal bar to prevent lateral movement of the canoe along the bars due to crosswinds. Note the quick release Grumman canoe straps used to secure the canoe at the bow and stern. These straps, which can be adjusted in seconds, hold the canoe very securely. I drilled holes in the underside of the front and rear bumpers to accept the S-hooks on the straps.
	To adjust the straps, simply slip the locking ring over the end of the handle, take in or let out more slack on the strap, then lever the handle back against the strap and slip the locking ring back over the end of the handle. The Grumman straps are available wherever fine quality canoes and kayaks are sold.

Tires
Current tires are Michelin Agilis 61 185 R14C 6 ply.
Quite simply, the best tires I've had on the van. Expensive but worth every penny.

Tires
	Current tires are Michelin Agilis 61 185 R14C 6 ply. Quite simply, the best tires I've had on the van. Expensive but worth every penny.

Cutlery Drawer Organiser
I fabricated a custom made cutlery organiser for the kitchen cutlery drawer using corrugated cardboard and a hotsy-totsy glue gun.
"A place for everything, and everything in its place."

Cutlery Drawer Organiser
	I fabricated a custom made cutlery organiser for the kitchen cutlery drawer using corrugated cardboard and a hotsy-totsy glue gun. "A place for everything, and everything in its place."

Engine Lid Insulation
A sheet of dense industrial 3/8" foam sheeting over the engine compartment helps to insulate the van's interior from engine heat. The home air conditioning and heating industry uses this dense foam as insulators for copper freon lines and similar applications. The foam sheeting covering my Westy's engine lid has been patched with the "handyman's helper" (duct tape).

I used the tubular form of the insulation to wrap the heater hoses under the dash to keep heat from warming the van's interior in the summer.

Engine Lid Insulation
	A sheet of dense industrial 3/8" foam sheeting over the engine compartment helps to insulate the van's interior from engine heat. The home air conditioning and heating industry uses this dense foam as insulators for copper freon lines and similar applications. The foam sheeting covering my Westy's engine lid has been patched with the "handyman's helper" (duct tape).
	I used the tubular form of the insulation to wrap the heater hoses under the dash to keep heat from warming the van's interior in the summer.

Clothes Line
Tie a length of cord between the pop top roof struts to act as a clothes line.

Clothes Line
	Tie a length of cord between the pop top roof struts to act as a clothes line.

Window Tinting & Nose Mask
Window tinting has been professionally applied. Front door window glass: 50%; Rear side window glass: 20%; Hatch window glass: 5%; Windshield strip: 20%
The original design of the Vanagon nose mask had a continuous piece of screening going right across the mask covering the grill and both headlamps which made it impossible to wipe the headlamps clean when necessary. I cut away the screening from headlamp area of the mask, leaving the screening over the grill area and sewed two pieces of exterior grade vinyl just either side of the headlamps to keep the mask together.

Window Tinting & Nose Mask
	Window tinting has been professionally applied. Front door window glass: 50%; Rear side window glass: 20%; Hatch window glass: 5%; Windshield strip: 20% The original design of the Vanagon nose mask had a continuous piece of screening going right across the mask covering the grill and both headlamps which made it impossible to wipe the headlamps clean when necessary. I cut away the screening from headlamp area of the mask, leaving the screening over the grill area and sewed two pieces of exterior grade vinyl just either side of the headlamps to keep the mask together.

Ergonomic Mods
The driver's side window crank has been re-positioned such that driver's left leg doesn't rest uncomfortably against the knob.

The two corner dash vents have been removed, flipped left to right and re-inserted. It's easier for the driver to flip the vent open now without having to reach in and around the steering wheel to find the vent tab. It's also less of a stretch now for the driver to reach over and open/close the passenger dash vent.

All interior lights have been re-oriented such that sliding the switch up will turn on the light, sliding it down will turn off the light.
Whether it's a vent or a light, in my van, "up" means open, "down" means close.
Thanks to Joel Walker for the tips!

Driver's side grab bar makes for a more graceful entrance for the driver.

The "C" pillar knob has been replaced with a grab strap.

Ergonomic Mods
	The driver's side window crank has been re-positioned such that driver's left leg doesn't rest uncomfortably against the knob.
	The two corner dash vents have been removed, flipped left to right and re-inserted. It's easier for the driver to flip the vent open now without having to reach in and around the steering wheel to find the vent tab. It's also less of a stretch now for the driver to reach over and open/close the passenger dash vent.
	All interior lights have been re-oriented such that sliding the switch up will turn on the light, sliding it down will turn off the light. Whether it's a vent or a light, in my van, "up" means open, "down" means close. Thanks to Joel Walker for the tips!
	Driver's side grab bar makes for a more graceful entrance for the driver.
	The "C" pillar knob has been replaced with a grab strap.

Fridge
1. Cutting away part of the cabinet support at the rear of the fridge cabinet cavity now allows for easier removal of the fridge. The ribbed flue pipe on the fridge no longer gets caught on the cabinet cross-member. 2. Installing an additional coil fan (Fridgemate #FMA10-2710) at the back of the fridge dispells heat more quickly than the single (noisy) stock fan. 3. I've done the Dometic fridge air pump modification. Cost about $20 but didn't provide a heck of a lot more air for the combustion process. Better yet, use a foot pump (shown) with a flexible tube connected to the fridge drain outlet. This puts a LOT more air into the combustion chamber, thus making fridge propane mode start-up a breeze! 4. I use a free standing DC operated fridge fan (shown) in fridge's interior to eliminate "thermal layering" (technical term). This keeps the fridge interior at an even temperature throughout. 5. To make efficient use of the refrigerator's interior, I use empty one litre milk cartons (shown) in the door to hold small food items.

Fridge
	1. Cutting away part of the cabinet support at the rear of the fridge cabinet cavity now allows for easier removal of the fridge. The ribbed flue pipe on the fridge no longer gets caught on the cabinet cross-member. 2. Installing an additional coil fan (Fridgemate #FMA10-2710) at the back of the fridge dispells heat more quickly than the single (noisy) stock fan. 3. I've done the Dometic fridge air pump modification. Cost about $20 but didn't provide a heck of a lot more air for the combustion process. Better yet, use a foot pump (shown) with a flexible tube connected to the fridge drain outlet. This puts a LOT more air into the combustion chamber, thus making fridge propane mode start-up a breeze! 4. I use a free standing DC operated fridge fan (shown) in fridge's interior to eliminate "thermal layering" (technical term). This keeps the fridge interior at an even temperature throughout. 5. To make efficient use of the refrigerator's interior, I use empty one litre milk cartons (shown) in the door to hold small food items.

Air Conditioning
A few years back, I improved upon the slipshod design of the Westfalia's AC with a simple mod that took all of about 15 minutes and didn't introduce any unsightly ductwork into the interior. The problem with AC air not reaching the front cabin area relates to the large, cavernous overhead AC housing. Although the AC fan has enough power to blast the air to the front of the van, the AC housing has no channels or interior ductwork to prevent the air from bouncing around inside looking for a way out, all the while losing momentum. Added to this are the poorly sealed joints of the housing which allow the AC air to leak out to where it should not be going...like the closet! To overcome these problems, I cut a few lengths of foam tubing normally used to insulate 1/2" copper water pipes in the home. Using a meter stick, this tubing was then shoved into the housing through the openings exposed after I removed the six vents on the front of the housing. The tubing's diameter is just large enough that it will 'friction fit' and remain in place after being positioned in the housing. The positioning of this tubing is all important. The idea here is to use parallel pairs of tubing to create a channel for each of the outlets you see at the back of the box and direct the AC air straight to the housing vents, not allowing the air to bounce around aimlessly inside the box. I also blocked off the two outside vents for extra measure. The air flow coming out of the AC is now more efficient and has enough momentum to reach the driver and front passenger when the vents are 'aimed' properly. For the minimum time and money expended on this mod, I've received more than value for my money. I now rarely need to set the AC blower switch higher than the second speed in order to cool the driver and navigator in the cockpit.

Air Conditioning
	A few years back, I improved upon the slipshod design of the Westfalia's AC with a simple mod that took all of about 15 minutes and didn't introduce any unsightly ductwork into the interior. The problem with AC air not reaching the front cabin area relates to the large, cavernous overhead AC housing. Although the AC fan has enough power to blast the air to the front of the van, the AC housing has no channels or interior ductwork to prevent the air from bouncing around inside looking for a way out, all the while losing momentum. Added to this are the poorly sealed joints of the housing which allow the AC air to leak out to where it should not be going...like the closet! To overcome these problems, I cut a few lengths of foam tubing normally used to insulate 1/2" copper water pipes in the home. Using a meter stick, this tubing was then shoved into the housing through the openings exposed after I removed the six vents on the front of the housing. The tubing's diameter is just large enough that it will 'friction fit' and remain in place after being positioned in the housing. The positioning of this tubing is all important. The idea here is to use parallel pairs of tubing to create a channel for each of the outlets you see at the back of the box and direct the AC air straight to the housing vents, not allowing the air to bounce around aimlessly inside the box. I also blocked off the two outside vents for extra measure. The air flow coming out of the AC is now more efficient and has enough momentum to reach the driver and front passenger when the vents are 'aimed' properly. For the minimum time and money expended on this mod, I've received more than value for my money. I now rarely need to set the AC blower switch higher than the second speed in order to cool the driver and navigator in the cockpit.

Stainless Steel Screws
Screws for the galley flooring, the exterior camping facility access covers and the fridge/stove flue cover have been replaced with stainless steel screws. Bolts on the muffler brackets and the propane tank shield have been upgraded as well, with stainless steel.

Stainless Steel Screws
	Screws for the galley flooring, the exterior camping facility access covers and the fridge/stove flue cover have been replaced with stainless steel screws. Bolts on the muffler brackets and the propane tank shield have been upgraded as well, with stainless steel.

Wiper Blades
The driver's side stock windshield wiper blade (18") has been replaced with a 20" blade to provide more visibility.
Thanks to Bill Davidson for this gem!

Wiper Blades
	The driver's side stock windshield wiper blade (18") has been replaced with a 20" blade to provide more visibility. Thanks to Bill Davidson for this gem!

Recommended VW Shop
And, possibly the most important tip of all...if you're ever in need of expert VW repairs while in Winnipeg, drive or tow your Vanagon to the shop that's been taking good care of mine for years:
E.K. Import Auto Service 1043 Springfield Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada · Phone (204) 663-8886

Recommended VW Shop
	And, possibly the most important tip of all...if you're ever in need of expert VW repairs while in Winnipeg, drive or tow your Vanagon to the shop that's been taking good care of mine for years: E.K. Import Auto Service 1043 Springfield Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada · Phone (204) 663-8886

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